Lyle Carlson and serenity needed to surf big bad waves

Upon meeting famous surfer and local San Franciscan Lyle Carlson three years ago there was little doubt that that moment could be life-changing. His presence, stoic and assured, could certainly provide anyone with a sense of refuge. Before our interview began it was undeniably apparent from his ease of competence and natural stature that his company would command attention. Listening attentively was no large task and what was learned was paramount to leading a healthy balanced life.

Relaxed and poised, instead of sitting in a café stuck in hardwood chairs he opted for a couple of strolls around the high school track. This afforded an inherent environment to discuss upbringing, surf, film, education and politics. Surfing at age 8, raised all over the world including Asia and the predominately African American southern United States it makes sense that he acquired a universal appreciation of people from all walks of life, including him in the mix. Thus his approach to surfing was about unity.

Two years later, meeting up again but this time for tea, Lyle had evolved critically. His philosophy was acute and conclusive: the emotional relationship between human and creation is the entire purpose in everyone. From every sigh to each glance there is a yearning whether it is dormant or alive to nourish spirit. This is surfing.

Since then Lyle has been active in raising environmental awareness through fundraising and outreach. As he continues to surprise his followers, it will be a delight to see what he does next. Perhaps his work will develop interested supporters. His tender towards the educational benefits of being in harmony with nature and therefore oneself is proof enough that all children should have these skills so when they grow up they do so with love.